Tuesday, 24 May 2016

Autopsy of the Scout Tee

Once again, I’m jumping late on the band wagon.  The Scout Tee has been around for a while, I’m sure that many people had written at length about it, so why not adding my contribution?

Pattern name: Scout Tee
Company: Grainline Studio
Size: 18 and 16 with FBA

I’ve been making my own clothes since I was a teen, and during this time, I never ever made adjustment to any of my patterns.  I would normally cut the size the closest to my measurements and make the garment fit, more or less, my body by changing the seam allowance did modify patterns but only once the fabric was cut, in an attempt to make the garment fit.  But this is the first time I cut into the paper pattern.

Here is my process.  First, I cut a size 18 which is where my bust measurement takes me, the fabric is Lawn dot to dot from Gertie’s collection at Joann.  As much as I liked this first version, I wanted the shoulder to be more fitted and a bit less fabric around my body.  Unfortunately, you can’t see any of these on the pictures, the top has shrank during the first wash an it is now a bit snug around my chest and back.  I don’t normally pre-wash my fabrics before making garments, I should probably!  Also this top is all worked with French seems which makes it nice and clean on the inside.

Scout Tee6

Now the second version.  I traced a size 16 and chopped into the pattern adding a 1’' ease on my FBA, adding a dart on the sides.  I followed Jenny’s tutorial for Full Bust Adjustment and added some ease at the chest area.  Not bad, but I feel that the darts are a bit too low, it is not quite visible on these pictures, but trust me on this.  Also, on this version, I sewed a 2.5” hem, making it slightly cropped.  I quite like it.

Scout Tee4

So here is FBA #2, with an apex 1.5” higher that the previous one, but with the same 1” ease at the bust area.  For this version, I’ve use some Liberty’s fabric that I have been hoarding forever.  Working with Liberty’s is such a pleasure.  I should probably have used French seams here too but even after a couple of washes the fabric hasn’t frayed.

Scout Tee5

Now looking at these pictures, I realised two things.  First, I think I probably need to make some back adjustment, all the tops look a bit tight at the shoulders.  It is interesting that I did not ‘feel’ the snug on my shoulders, I guess most of my tops are like that and I’ve been getting used to it.  Secondly, I don’t understand why the front hem of my modified tops are picking up? Should I move my darts higher on the sides to avoid this?  Or could it be the nature of the fabric? Any expert’s advice please?

For the last 2 tops I cut the bias neck bidding from a different fabric.  This way I don’t need as much yardage of my more expensive fabric.

Scout Tee7

All in all, I love this top.  It is pretty easy and fast to make.  I’m sure I can speed up the process even more by setting the sleeves flat.  I can see many more Scout Tee in my near future, I have some knit fabric I want to try, I just need a bit more time…

1 comment:

  1. You are so good at all the things you do. But I must admit....I don't know where you get the time! I love the tees and the different fabrics you used.

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